How to Install a Classic Car Headliner

Classic Auto Parts is independent and reader-supported. When you buy through links on this page we may earn a commission from Amazon or eBay at no extra cost to you. We don't accept payment for placement, and we don't publish made-up prices, specs or ratings — tiers ($ to $$$) show relative cost only. Always follow your vehicle's service manual and safety procedures.

Headliners sag, stain, tear and absorb decades of smoke and odors. Replacing one makes an interior look fresh and finished. Classic cars generally use one of two designs: bow-type headliners, where fabric hangs on metal bows that clip into the roof, common in cars through the 1970s; and board-type headliners, where fabric is glued to a molded fiberboard or fiberglass shell, common in later cars.

This guide covers both. The process varies by car, so keep your assembly manual handy. Many restorers do the headliner before carpet and seats so they have room to move, and some remove the windshield and rear glass for easier access to the edges.

Tools and supplies

• A reproduction headliner in the correct material, color and bow count for your car.
• High-temperature headliner adhesive (spray or brush-on).
• Binder clips, spring clamps or headliner clips to hold fabric while you work.
• Nylon trim tools and a sharp razor knife with fresh blades.
• A handheld steamer, or a heat gun used carefully on low.
• Masking tape and a marker for labeling bows.
• Optionally, a helper; an extra pair of hands makes stretching much easier.

Step 1: Remove trim and the old headliner

Remove sun visors, the rearview mirror if it mounts to the roof, dome lights, coat hooks, garnish moldings, windlace and any trim holding the headliner edges. On bow-type headliners, carefully pull the edges free and unhook each bow from its mounting holes. Label each bow and note its position; bows are often different lengths and shapes, and they must go back in the same order. Photograph how the fabric attaches around windows and pillars.

Step 2: Prepare the roof

With the headliner out, clean the roof panel and check for rust, especially around the windshield and rear window where leaks are common. Fix any leaks now; see removing a classic windshield. This is also the perfect time to add sound deadening and insulation to the roof, which reduces drumming and heat. See install sound deadening. Scrape off old adhesive from the tack strips and edges where the new headliner will be glued.

Step 3: Installing a bow-type headliner

1. Lay the new headliner on a clean surface and slide each bow into its matching sleeve, in the correct order.
2. Starting in the middle of the car, hang each bow in its mounting holes.
3. Center the headliner front to back and side to side, and check that the sleeves' seams run straight.
4. Start at the rear window: pull the fabric evenly, glue it along the edge or tack strip, and clip in place.
5. Move to the windshield, pulling the fabric forward gently to remove slack and wrinkles, then glue and clip.
6. Work the sides last, pulling evenly from the center outward toward each corner.
7. Adjust tension as you go; wrinkles usually mean uneven pull in one direction.
8. Once adhesive has set, trim excess fabric with a sharp blade.

Step 4: Installing a board-type headliner

Remove the board from the car, often through a door opening with the seats reclined or removed. Peel off the old fabric and scrape away the crumbling foam backing completely; new adhesive won't stick to old foam dust. Lightly clean the board. Apply adhesive to the board and the back of the new foam-backed fabric, following the product's tack time. Lay the fabric from the center outward, smoothing it into contours without stretching. Wrap the edges and glue them to the back of the board, then trim and reinstall.

Avoiding wrinkles

Wrinkles are the most common headliner complaint. Work slowly, pull evenly from the center outward, and use a steamer to relax fabric and vinyl so it conforms without puckering. Warm fabric stretches more evenly, so a warm garage or a sunny day helps. On bow-type headliners, small wrinkles near the edges can often be pulled out by re-adjusting the glued edge before the adhesive fully cures.

Step 5: Reinstall trim

Locate holes for visors, dome lights and coat hooks by feeling for them through the fabric, then cut small X-shaped slits rather than large holes. Reinstall garnish moldings and windlace carefully; they hold the edges tight and hide trimmed fabric. If you removed the glass, reinstall it with new gaskets before trim.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Mixing up bow order, which makes wrinkles impossible to remove.
• Using general-purpose spray adhesive that lets go in summer heat.
• Cutting holes too large for trim and fixtures.
• Rushing the stretching process.
• Leaving old foam dust on a headliner board.

DIY or pro?

Board-type headliners are very DIY-friendly. Bow-type headliners take more patience but are manageable, especially with a helper. If you want concours perfection, or if your car has a complex headliner with many bows, a trim shop may be worthwhile. Many shops will install a headliner you've purchased.

Choosing materials

Reproduction headliners come in materials matched to original specifications: perforated vinyl, cloth, and patterned vinyl. Choose the correct material and color for your car's trim code. For custom interiors, suede-like fabrics and other modern materials are popular. Foam-backed headliner fabric is used for board-type headliners.

Time expectations

A board-type headliner can take an afternoon. A bow-type headliner may take a full day or more, especially the first time. Allow time for adhesive to set.

Care after installation

Avoid touching the headliner with dirty hands, and clean spots gently with an appropriate cleaner. Keep windows closed in rain and fix leaks promptly; water stains are difficult to remove.

Sun visors and trim

Reupholster or replace sun visors to match the new headliner.

Headliner supplies